Free Amigurumi Crochet Pattern

Sleepy Baby Bear & Bunny Lovey Blanket

PUBLISHED ON DECEMBER 16, 2019 © ALANNA O'DEA

Designed thoughtfully with the both the beginner crocheter and amigurumist in mind, whether you are a seasoned pro at granny squares but feel a little daunted by the art of amigurumi or an amigurumi enthusiast struggling with blankets, my Sleepy Baby Bear & Bunny Lovey is the perfect fit for you! These lovies have been designed to pair with the Sleepy Baby Bear & Bunny Stick Rattles for the perfect little gift set.

While making up the head and ears, you'll master the technique of working single crochet stitches in spiral rounds, a skill that forms the foundation of nearly every amigurumi pattern you'll encounter. For the blanket you will crochet a flat square starting with a magic ring. Further expanding your crochet repertoire you will also make other basic crochet stitches, such as double crochet stitch, a front post double crochet stitch, chain stitch and even a treble crochet stitch!

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Free Amigurumi Patterns lovey Crochet sleepy bunny

© 2024 Theodore And Rose - Alanna O'Dea. All rights reserved. This pattern is for PERSONAL USE ONLY! No part of this pattern may be published, resold, reproduced (in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, recording or otherwise), shared, translated or altered without prior permission in writing from the author. You cannot form or sell kits for my patterns without my written permission.

You are permitted to sell the finished items made from my patterns, on the condition that they are handmade by yourself and you credit Alanna O'Dea (Theodore And Rose) as the designer.

All Theodore And Rose toys are original designs. I dedicate considerable effort to creating these crochet designs, writing patterns, capturing photographs, and providing friendly customer service.

Please honour my hard work by crediting me whenever you share items made using my patterns.

Thank you.

Amigurumi Crochet Pattern Notes

Skill Level: Advanced beginner.
Written in English using US crochet terms.
Read the entire pattern before you start.
Be sure to check out my TIPS & TUTORIALS page for helpful tips and techniques on essentials like the magic ring, invisible decrease, two ways to single crochet, how to determine the right and wrong side of your work and more, all invaluable aids for crocheting this pattern.
When working amigurumi parts (head and ears), work stitches in a continuous spiral, without closing the round off with a slip stitch (slst) unless otherwise instructed.
Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round, moving it up as you work. This helps to keep track of the round and when counting your stitches to compare it to the pattern.
I use the 'X' single crochet method for amigurumi parts as opposed to the traditional 'V' stitch method. This results in a tighter fabric and the finished toy ends up smaller than when using the traditional method. If you need further information on he difference between the two ways to make a single crochet, you can read more about it HERE.
To prevent the fabric from showing large stretch holes when stuffed, choose a smaller hook size than that recommended on the ball sleeve of your yarn.
Stuff firmly unless instructed otherwise. Insert small amounts at a time until you get the right look. Stuffing your toy can be tricky, but it is a very important step in achieving the right shape and look for your toy: overstuffing might stretch the fabric too far and show gaps, and understuffing will give your toy a deflated look. Take your time with this step, shaping as you go.
To help you when sewing pieces together, first pin them into place and check that you are happy with the positioning.
Always leave long enough yarn ends where instructed so that they can be used for sewing later.

Gauge and Finished Size

Blanket Gauge: 19 stitches and 9 rows in double crochet = 10cm x 10cm.
Amigurumi Gauge: 5 rounds = 3.7cm across (Note: crochet the first 5 rounds of the head to use as a gauge swatch).
Finished Size: The finished blanket is approximately 33cm x 33cm; the head is approximately 22cm in diameter.

Suggested Crochet Tools and Materials

Hook: 2.5mm (US C/2) and 4mm (US G/6)
Yarn: DK cotton yarn 100-120g. The example bear and bunny loveys were made using Heirloom Cotton 8 ply (120m/50g) in shades Oat (6630) and Parchment (6617) for the bears and Glacier (6619) and Snow (6607) for the bunnies.
Black embroidery cotton for the eyes and nose
Toy stuffing - approximately 40g
Stitch marker
Embroidery scissors
Yarn needle

Crochet Abbreviations (US Terminology)

[...] 'X' times = work instructions within brackets, as a sequence, as many times as directed
beg = beginning
BLO = back loop only
ch = chain (yarn over, pull through)
cnr/s = corner/s
dc = double crochet (Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, you will have three loops on the hook. Yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops).
dec = single crochet invisible decrease (Insert hook into front loop only of next two stitches, yarn over, pull through, you will have two loops on the hook. yarn over and pull through both loops on the hook)
FLO = front loop only
FPdc = front post double crochet (Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, you will have three loops on the hook. Yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops).
hdc = half double crochet (Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, you will have three loops on the hook. Yarn over, pull through all three loops).
inc = single crochet increase (Make two complete single crochets (sc) into the same stitch)
Rnd = round
sc = single crochet (Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, you will have two loops on the hook. Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops). Note: I use the 'X' single crochet method for amigurumi parts - click HERE to learn more.
slst = slip stitch (Insert hook, yarn over, pull through both stitch and loop on hook).
sp/s = space/s
tr = treble crochet (Yarn over hook twice, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, you will have four loops on the hook. Yarn over, pull through two loops, you will have three loops on the hook. Yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops).

Let's Get Making!

Head

Using the 2.5mm (US C/2) hook and chosen yarn, make a magic ring (View tutorial on magic ring HERE)

Rnd 1: ch 1, sc 6 into magic ring. Pull the ring closed. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: sc inc in each st around (12 sts)

Rnd 3: [sc in next st, sc inc in next st] 6 times (18 sts)

Rnd 4: [sc in next 2 sts, sc inc in next st] 6 times (24 sts)

Rnd 5: [sc in next 3 sts, sc inc in next st] 6 times (30 sts)

Rnd 6: sc in next 2 sts, sc inc in next st, [sc in next 4 sts, sc inc in next st] 5 times, sc in next 2 sts (36 sts)

Rnd 7: [sc in next 5 sts, sc inc in next st] 6 times (42 sts)

Rnd 8: sc in next 3 sts, sc inc in next st, [sc in next 6 sts, sc inc in next st] 5 times, sc in next 3 sts (48 sts)

Rnd 9-19: sc in each st around (48 sts) (11 Rnds)

Rnd 20: sc in next 3 sts, dec, [sc in next 6 sts, dec] 5 times, sc in next 3 sts (42 sts)

Rnd 21: [sc in next 5 sts, dec] 6 times (36 sts)

Rnd 22: sc in next 2 sts, dec, [sc in next 4 sts, dec] 5 times, sc in next 2 sts (30 sts)

Rnd 23: [sc in next 3 sts, dec] 6 times (24 sts)

Rnd 24: Work all sts in this round in BLO: [sc in next 2 sts, dec] 6 times (18 sts)

Note: This BLO round will act as a guide when attaching the head to the blanket.

Stuff the head firmly with fibrefill, taking your time and shaping as you go.

Rnd 25: [sc in next st, dec] 6 times (12 sts)

Rnd 26: [dec] 6 times (6 sts)

Fasten off. Weave the yarn tail through the FLO of Rnd 26 and pull firmly to close off the head. You can find a tutorial on how to close your stitches HERE.

Bear Ears (make 2)

Using the 2.5mm (US C/2) hook and chosen yarn, make a magic ring.

Rnd 1: ch 1, sc 6 into magic ring. Pull the ring closed. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: sc inc in each st around (12 sts)

Rnd 3: [sc in next st, sc inc in next st] 6 times (18 sts)

Rnd 4: sc in each st around (18 sts)

Rnd 5: [sc in next st, dec] 6 times (12 sts)

Rnd 6: sc in each st around (12 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail. Sew the ears to the top of the head between rounds 6-10 on either side.

Bunny Ears (make 2)

Using the 2.5mm (US C/2) hook and chosen yarn, make a magic ring.

Rnd 1: ch 1, sc 4 into magic ring. Pull the ring closed. (4 sts)

Rnd 2: sc inc in each st around (8 sts)

Rnd 3: [sc in next st, sc inc in next st] 4 times (12 sts)

Rnd 4: [sc in next 2 sts, sc inc in next st] 4 times (16 sts)

Rnd 5: [sc in next 3 sts, sc inc in next st] 4 times (20 sts)

Rnd 6: [sc in next 4 sts, sc inc in next st] 4 times (24 sts)

Rnd 7-13: sc in each st around (24 sts) (7 Rnds)

Rnd 14: [sc in next 10 sts, dec] 2 times (22 sts)

Rnd 15: [sc in next 9 sts, dec] 2 times (20 sts)

Rnd 16: [sc in next 8 sts, dec] 2 times (18 sts)

Rnd 17: sc in each st around (18 sts)

Rnd 18: [sc in next 7 sts, dec] 2 times (16 sts)

Rnd 19-20: sc in each st around (16 sts) (2 Rnds)

Do not stuff the ear. Flatten the top together and sc 8 sts through both layers to close the opening. Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing the ear to the head. Pinch the ears together and using the yarn tail, secure in place with a couple of stitches. Sew the ears to the top of the head between rounds 5 and 6 on either side.

Arms (make 2)

Using the 2.5mm (US C/2) hook and chosen yarn, make a magic ring.

Rnd 1: ch 1, sc 6 into magic ring. Pull the ring closed. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: [sc in next st, sc inc in next st] 3 times (9 sts)

Rnd 3: [sc in next 2 sts, sc inc in next st] 3 times (12 sts)

Rnd 4-22: sc in each st around (12 sts) (19 Rnds)

Fill arms with a small amount of fiberfill (concentrated mostly in the hands). Flatten the top together and sc 6 sts through both layers to close the opening. Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing the arms to the blanket later.

Lovey Blanket

Using the 4mm (US G/6) hook and chosen yarn, leaving a long yarn tail, make a magic ring.

Rnd 1: ch 4 (counts as 1st tr throughout), into magic ring work 4 dc, [tr, 4 dc] 3 times. Pull the magic ring closed. Join Rnd with a slst into top of beg ch-4 (20 sts) Note: tr stitch forms cnrs.

Rnd 2: ch 4, work 2 dc into cnr tr (the base of the ch-4), [dc in each st across side to next cnr tr, into cnr tr work (2 dc, tr, 2 dc)] 3 times. Dc in each st across side to beg cnr tr, work 2 dc into beg cnr tr to finish. Join Rnd with a slst into top of beg ch-4 (36 sts)

Rnd 3: ch 5 (counts as dc and a ch 2 sp throughout), work 2 dc into cnr tr, [dc in each st across side to next cnr tr, into cnr tr work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc)] 3 times. Dc in each st across side to beg cnr tr, work dc into beg cnr tr to finish. Join Rnd with a slst into 3rd ch of beg ch-5 (48 sts & 4 ch-2 sps)

Rnd 4: slst into ch-2 sp, ch 4, work 2 dc into same ch-2 sp, [dc in each st across side to next ch-2 sp, into ch-2 sp work (2 dc, tr, 2 dc)] 3 times. Dc in each st across side to beg ch-2 sp, work 2 dc into 1st ch-2 sp to finish. Join Rnd with a slst into top of beg ch-4 (68 sts)

Rnd 5: repeat Rnd 3 (80 sts & 4 ch-2 sps)

Rnd 6: repeat Rnd 4 (100 sts)

Rnd 7: repeat Rnd 3 (112 sts & 4 ch-2 sps)

Rnd 8: repeat Rnd 4 (132 sts)

Rnd 9: repeat Rnd 3 (144 sts & 4 ch-2 sps)

Rnd 10: repeat Rnd 4 (164 sts)

Rnd 11: repeat Rnd 3 (176 sts & 4 ch-2 sps)

Rnd 12: slst into ch-2 sp, ch 4, 2 dc in same sp, [(work a FPdc around 1st dc post, dc in next st) 22 times, into ch-2 sp work (2 dc, tr, 2 dc)] 3 times. Next (work a FPdc around 1st dc post, dc in next st) 22 times, work 2 dc into ch-2 sp to finish Rnd. Join Rnd with a slst into top of beg ch-4 (196 sts)

Rnd 13: ch 4, 2 dc into same cnr tr, [(dc into next st, work a FPdc around next dc post) 24 times, into cnr tr work (2 dc, tr, 2 dc)] 3 times. Next (work dc into next st, work a FPdc around next dc post) 24 times, work 2 dc into cnr tr to finish Rnd. Join Rnd with a slst into top of beg ch-4 (212 sts)

Rnd 14: ch 4, 2 dc into same cnr tr, [(work a FPdc around 1st dc post, dc in next st) 26 times, into cnr tr work (2 dc, tr, 2 dc)] 3 times. Next (work a FPdc around 1st dc post, dc in next st) 26 times, work 2 dc into cnr tr to finish Rnd. Join Rnd with a slst into top of beg ch-4 (228 sts)

Rnd 15: ch 2 (counts as hdc), sc into same st, [sc into each st across to next cnr tr, (sc, hdc, sc) into cnr tr] 3 times, sc into each st across to beg cnr tr, sc into beg cnr tr to finish Rnd. Join Rnd with a slst into top of beg ch-2 (236 sts)

Fasten off. Weave in finishing yarn tail only.

amigurumi crochet free patterns for loveys

amigurumi crochet free patterns for loveys - bears & bunnies

Embroidery Work On Your Lovey

Embroider the eyes, nose and eyebrows on to the head with black thread. I placed the eyes and the top of the nose between rounds 16 and 17 with 9 stitches between the eyes. Use pink yarn to add little pink cheeks under the eyes.

TIP: Bring the yarn up from the base of the head and return thread to the base when finished. Here you now can easily secure the yarn tails and the blanket will hide it all later for a professionally neat finish.

Lovey Blanket Assembly

Step 1: Lay the blanket flat and position the head on the blanket with the face centred on a diagonal with the blanket seam (starting point of each round) at the back. Carefully pin into position, turn your work over and using the long yarn tail from the head, sew an ‘X’, being sure to pass through both the blanket and the head together.

Step 2: Lay the blanket flat and position the head on the blanket with the face centred on a diagonal with the blanket seam (starting point of each round) at the back. Carefully pin into position, turn your work over and using the long yarn tail from the head, sew an ‘X’, being sure to pass through both the blanket and the head together.

Position the arms and sew securely to the blanket.

CONGRATULATIONS!!!

Your Amigurumi Sleepy Baby Lovey is finished.

Pinterest Card - FREE Crochet Pattern Sleepy Baby Bear & Bunny.jpg

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